MAGAM theme for November - scanning my stash for ideas

MAGAM's theme for November is "November nights: make something for your November nights".

Hmmm, cos I've started looking for a summer nightie that I can make for weekends away/holidays.  At home I can sleep in an old t-shirt or singlet but as I sleepwalk, I feel the need to wear something a little more covered. Lightweight, but coverage.

I have some cotton voiles and have been scoping out suitable patterns. Simplicity 1260 is sort of what I was trying to mock up last year using a tops pattern, but I bodgied it wrong so don't really want to look at it much. It's not yet available in Australia yet (new), so scratch that from my list.

Part of me wonders if I can get Simplicity 1426 and and a skirt section to View A, with criss cross back straps. No halterneck for me (acreage drag factor on my neck!). That appeals. 



Also on my list of possibles is Burda 7109 - a shorter version  of view A

MAGAM: October plan

The MAGAM theme for October is "Opalescence - sew & shine". Opals being the birthstone for October.

This was an easy one for me ... the fire opal is far more appealing than the milky ones. I have my two Anne Adams pattens and this fabric. Thats' as close to fire opals as I have in my stash.

It also counts in my Vintagw Sewing Pattern Pledge, which I've kinda let slide all year. Oops

pondering the MAGAM theme for July

The theme for July is "Sew your wish",  and considering how much of what I sew has been purely what I want (a new costume for an event) rather than clothing that I need for work, I'm wondering what I can make that fits the theme but isn't self indulgent.

I've been wishing for a summer dress, and although it's winter now, spring arrives suddenly in Sydney and it's been 39C in September before now.

finished my nightie for June MAGAM

Thankfully I made few mistakes sewing this as it's a pattern I've used a lot before, however the external facing is uneven. Though I can't be too upset as it's sleepwear, not something I'll be seen wearing on the street. Flat fell seams make it comfy, modelled with socks on my feet as I forgot to pack my slippers (pet minding for friends).

 

I'm glad to have got another MAGAM challenge complete (missed one or 2 this year).

I have to admit that my stashbusting hasn't been helped by this garment, as I came home with another length for a winter nightie. This time it's robots!  

a late entry plan for June MAGAM

I need a sure thing, a winner to revive my sewing mojo. It's usually just below the surface and starting to sew anything helps. Especially when you know it's going to be a winner.  I started using the Past Pattern's chemise #002 as a nightgown pattern when I realised that not only is it period accurate in terms of sleepwear for many (despite my flannellette choices) but it's dead simple to make. I sew it with flat fell seams on the machine and that makes it just comfy on the inside too. I've taken to using a contrast fabric for a self drafted neck facing, and must hunt through my stash for some red with white pinstripes. I like penguins in cartoons, they're usually plotting mayhem.


Edited to add: The MAGAM theme for June is "June for the wellbeing of women. Celebrate the feminine with brightness and radiance." This fabric certainly is bright & radiant :D

I've not disappeared entirely

I was especting to post again much earlier than this, but I got lured into the time-sucking-pit of JAFA sewing ... the weekend before Easter I was at the aussie Jane Austen Festival in Canberra, and somehow ended up with half made and unmade costumes to sew while I was there.

I haven't even looked at all my photos yet - but I've seen my friend's photos and will be doing a couple of posts once I've got myself sorted out.

I took my netbook with me but didn't even turn it on once! It was really nice to have a proper break from real life.

My March MAGAM short gown project didn't get finished. I took the pragmatic approach that there was less work involved in finishing my UFO bib front gown, that's about 4 years old. I also realised that I really really cared about having a chemisette (a false blouse for filling in necklines during for daywear). I cared more about that than getting the short gown finished - as I had daywear clothing that fit.

When I got back I discovered that somehow I'd used up my entire months data allowance in 4 days - I think something in the background was constantly refreshing and as I was home sick my netbook was on and byebye data.

I'll get myself organised to top it up this week so that I can post photos from JAFA, and also this weekend's Ironfest in Lithgow (www.ironfest.net).

I do have an April MAGAM plan, but as I don't have a photo of the fabric I can't yet post it ... but Winter is Coming!

a delay in finishing my short gown ensemble

I'm having to take a delay in finishing the shortgown set - about which I'm not happy.

The reason is that the stays I wear under it don't fit, so I'm having to make a larger, quick & dirty version of them to wear at JAFA which is just over a week away. So yes, very not happy.

Until the stay are on, I can't tell if the bodice will fit. And if the bodice doesn't fit I will have to unpick the waist seam at the sides, unpick the sleeves which are inserted and insert a gusset at underarm.

Until the stays are finished I can't tell if any of the other clothes I already have for it will fit either. I may go from being well dressed to being shabbily dressed.

My desire for a new red wook cloak will be put on hold I think, as I need other things more. boooo Hisssss to the genetic lottery that makes me fat. (If you think I'm deluding myself about it being endocrine related and not diet/exercise, well I can give you the names of both my specialists who've empathised while they told me this. Mind you, you can pay the hundreds the apppointments with them will cost. For some things there is no cure, and for others there's not even a best practise treatment).

So a cotton drill machine sewn stays, is almost complete. I'm adding the metal grommets tonight, so long as I remember to get white cable ties (to use as flexible boning at the centre back) from Officeworks on my way home.

progress on my short gown

Whee, almost all the hand sewing is done, other than the rolled hem on the bodice skirting.  I've already machine sewn the hem of the full length skirt. Not yet cut out the skirt bodice, but I've got plans to do that tomorrow night.

Having a hint of tennis elbow returning on my right arm, sooo I'm only hand sewing for 5 mins at a time, max.  Hopefully that stops a full on flare up. But gives me time to get through the rolled hem over the next couple of weeks.  Yay for making everything else by machine!



The fabric design is definitely one way only, and the shoulder straps will match the back but be upside down on the front. But they didn't care about that so much as effective use of fabric.

Soon I'll be inserting the sleeves ... easier now than when the skirt is attached. Depending on how long the sleeves are I'll be doing this, a double ruffle at the end of fashionably long sleeves ... (2012-08-25 Kent State - English printed cotton day dress, circa 1810)


Or a ruffle-cuff-ruffle as per a short gown in Costume in Detail and what could be on this dress in France (Les Arts Decoratifs, item Inv. 49-32 17.A.B ; c1818-20 cotton dress)


Fortunately having used this pattern before (though with the original length sleeves) I've already fixed any fit issues (unless it's too tight around the bodice!!)

Stashbusting report for my year so far

I'm at 821.6m ... "down" from 817m which is a bit of a shocker. The main culprit is my failure to add 2 fabrics to my spreadsheet from November last year. One is a 10m piece of plaid linen for a victorian dress, and a 2m piece of linen rayon skirt weight. So that should have been 829m. Eep.

So clearly I'm further away from my target of 750m by the end of the year. It works out to around 6.6m per month if I buy nothing. And I have added a couple of pieces to my collection.

I do have a summer dress cut out (4m) and my March MAGAM will be another 4.5m used. That helps me get back on target.

I have another skirt to make - a grey linen/rayon (sort of a herringbone) that I'm going to make in the Decades of Style 1930s shaped seam skirt again (#3004). I just love wearing the style and have the fabric for it.

I fully intend to make another oouple of regency dresses - and my red cape and silk check parasol will help.

So my target for the end of March is 809.2m or 12.4m used this month.

If I had a picture to share it would have been the look of horror when I realised my catalogue error of 12m.

MAGAM - my plan for the March theme

For March I'm declaring an assault on the clothes I need for a Jane Austen festival. For starters I'm making a 2piece skirt & top using this dress pattern from Past Patterns #031 and some fabric from my stash.

I have plenty of other garments that I need to make for the 3 day event, so there's more to come than this 2-piece morning dress.

fitting changes made to Lilly Rose

I should have started with a bodice 1 size larger.  However I had already cut the pattern at a size that was right post-surgery, but sadly I've gained more weight in the past 10 months than I lost in the 5 months I was waiting (that was only 3kg) and in this pattern range it definitely made a difference.
I took out the usual 1cm between underarm & bust and 4cm between underarm and waist.  Added my usual FBA and it wasn't enough.

Because I didn't start with the right size (just toiled the one I'd cut & altered), instead I added to each side on the front (2" at underarm tapering to 1" at the waist), and filled in the armhole. Probably should have slashed and spread but my brain grasped this instantly and I didn't want to have to think.

I needed to change the  back waistband as I need a curved not straight - I think it's lower on me than intended and I am a short hourglass - the curves aren't the same as they would be on a taller person with the same measurements.  The front edge of the neck line had to be adapted to match my neck shape.

I did cut the back on the fold, and changed the neckline to a much lower V and completely redraft the neck facings. Now I'm not sure if I have the beta version of the pattern, but the front waistband is shorter than the bodice - I had to make the waistband 6mm or 1/4" longer on each half.  The neck facings don't match. Not only do they not match at the shoulder, but the front is not mirror imaged.  Plus the side front skirt panel has a small dip in it that I smoothed out (badly drawn on the pattern piece but smoothly cut on the fabric!).





I completely abandoned all thought of cap sleeves - my bingo arms say NO.  I used a fitted sleeve and added a couple of inches in height only to the sleeve cap to get a little puff.

I've already got more fabric to make this, and may alter the waistband - make 1" shallower to be more proportional to my height.

finished the Lilly Rose - with a superhero themed dress

My friend held her superhero themed birthday party yesterday, and I got my dress finished in the squeak of time.  I still want to tinker (a couple of seams are a little puckered, and it needs small shoulder pads).

On the bus there I rememebered that I have a vintage 40s hat in red wool that would be great with this, or I wanted to make a rockabilly style headband but didn't get there in time.  Anyhoo, on to my dress


I'm dog minding for friends and forgot to pack the right shoes for this, and despite going home for some forgot to put them into my bag.

I altered the neckline and made that up on the fly. Originally I wanted a W shape but thought it wouldn't work and went for a deeper V - until I realised the V would meet the waistband, and that wasn't the look I was after with such a narrow band.



and I was so excited to find an affordable massive gold star brooch on ebay.  As idea of scale, I take size 9 gloves


Oh and a full length pic -- which I've borrowed from Dee

4 days left to finish the skirt

Despite it being a long weekend, I did the tiniest bit of sewing. Saturday was domestic chores and schlepping across town to get a Hello Kitty mug and black glass bead long necklace. (This is the short version).

Sunday I slept til noon (like a teenager) and then did electronic housekeeping - backing up files, tidying up data folders before that.

Monday I slept til noon (so really must have needed it) and then I put my Big Girl Pants on and folded and [more unlikely] put away all the laundry I washed on Saturday. I put away all the costume books I'd pulled off the shelves, and stacked some library books to return on the way to the bus stop today.

Then I put all the copier-enlarged scale patterns and regency fashion plate printouts that I'd calculated design proportions on, into a bigger bundle than I expected.

And only then did I venture to the storeroom and collect bothy my ufo skirts & pattern pieces. The brown wool I put aside for later on, but the blue one got opened out for evaluation.

1) The 2 cut pieces (L & R fronts) are crumpled and need pressing.

2) The rest of the fabric is neatly folded

3) The back pattern piece needed altering to match the fronts (raising hip 2" cos I'm short with high hip padding).

I got #3 done but decided not to bring it to work to cut out. I've got til Friday night to finish it, and it's 3 seams, hem & waistband. I can do it

MAGAM: February gets a dress

I've already got a plan for February's MAGAM - a superhero themed vintage dress, for a friend's party.

I'm not sure if you'll guess which character it will be, but the pattern I'll be using is the Lilly Rose. I've had it for 18 months, and finally taped the pieces together last year while my knee was in a brace. Sheesh, I finally found something I resented about sewing. I'm hoping Lorna will provide the option to print on A3 paper, not just A4. See ... months later and I'm still whinging about it.





Editing on 16thFeb to add fabric photo:

MAGAM: January gets a skirt from the UFO pile

I've been a little slack since I came back to work. Early in the year I challenged my gluten tolerance, and had what can only be described as a 4-day gluten hangover. Silly me. It seems a tiny bit is ok, and a smallish amount isn't. Good to know, and that's much better than before when I could have zero amount.

Enough about silly innards, what was/is my plan for Make a Garment a Month??

I'm going to finish my UFO skirt this weekend. It's the Decades of Style 3004 shaped seam skirt. I've made it before, but the 'new beginning' is that it's just below knee length. This is shorter than I usually wear and the concept is that it's cooler on a hot day. Except of course that it's [yet again] cool, cloudy & showers with nary a patch of blue sky to be seen. NOT what I moved & stayed in Sydney for!

It's a long weekend here, so I've plenty of time to get a skirt done. It would take less time if I didn't have to press my now crumpled fabric. ooopsie!