Slow sewing

I'm slowly sewing the mermaid dress, and have decided to make the front appear to button down. That takes more buttons than I had so I either had to hope the shop still had some 2+ years later (they did) but before I could get there I realised the buttons I got with/for a linen/cotton dress would be even better.

These (larger) look less intrusive on the pale colours. Hence another trip on Sunday to get another 10. Scanning the buttons I picked out what I thought were these but realised they are the same style and size but with purple. As they weren't expensive I got 10 of each and can decide once it's time to use them.  They may also go with my African wax cotton grey stingrays on purple.

Sewing Sundays

This year I'm trying to do sew every Sunday that I'm not away,  at an event or sick.

No beating myself up if I don't, as it's more about being mindful and clearing up some of my unfinished projects.

Sadly,  my green tweed cloak disappeared from my shopping trolley in the supermarket before the vintage clasp arrived in the post - thankfully.  I've cut out the red wool in the same c1800 pattern,  but longer and as I had more fabric, fuller. Wish I'd seen it straight away as this weekend & next week is a cold,  windy snap.

Today I finally got the red floral vintage style dress hemmed,  it's going straight to the work roster.

I also finished the bike shorts I was making last year when ky machine needed a service due to a burr on the bobbin hook.

Next under a new sharps needle is the mermaid print dress that I cut out 2 years ago. There's more to sew on this than the martini print, but that needs freshly altered bodice pattern pieces to be drafted and cut out to replace the missing piece.

The darts are almost all done, and will be tonight.

progress on the green tweed cloak

I'm pantsing* my way through the cloak - there are generic instructions in the book but most of it is obvious. The only thing I had to unpick was a small section of the hood so it's working out well. I did that unpicking/repinning on the train to work yesterday, and when I got home added the front sections to the main part.

The other oops was in cutting - I counted squares (inches) on the grid and chalked and cut. Forgetting to write numbers down between steps and cut the front bands 3" shorter than the main panel.  It's not a disaster but a reminder to measure twice, cut once and make notes.

I'm really pleased that I managed to machine stitch all 3 sides of the lining in place on the front panel. Not all in the same seam though. I sewed the hem, then the front edge, then burrito rolled the main panel between the front panel and lining.  I was suprised how easy it was.  My hands got too cold and I couldn't find my fingerless mitts (why where they in the laundry?) so didn't finish it last night.

On the train to work I worked out the pleating onto the neckband - which isn't in the pattern but I choose to have one. Fortunately mirroring the pleats went effortlessly and I can quickly stitch it tonight. I flatlined the neckband with the cotton print, and will recut another neckband lining.  I'll quickly get this seam and the hood added to the top edge, and can do the hand sewing in the car tomorrow morning. I've got large hook/eye to fasten the neckband and will add green tape/ribbon once I find some.


* I first heard this term about writing cos although I don't write I easily read 100+ books every year and read blogs by a few of the many writers I'm a fan of.

Green tweed cloak is cut out

The cold snap is upon us,  and I really need something for the wait on the open air platform each morning. Also at night if it's windy. Plus TeslaFest is late in July so I may need it over a steampunk outfit.

I still can't decide if I'll dye the pink wool before making it,  so I cut out the green houndstooth tweed.  The lining for the hood/front sections is also from stash,  and thankfully in the to be folded pile.

A silky smooth lining isn't a good idea in the hood as that would slip right off your head. I also have some trim in the stash that I'm deciding whether to use or not.  There's @1.5m left from one piece,  and two small rolls of 2.1m.

Over half the woven fabric is folded and shelved

I took a couple of nights off from folding fabric after I reached the half way point of fabric folding. I think all the remaining fabrics (not in the discard pile) will fit in the cupboards. I might even fit in a shelf of mock up fabrics - selected from the discard pile; or possibly some of the notions also.

Now two thirds are folded and in the shelves, and its very satisfying. It's also a bit horrifying that with 620 metres done I still have over 300m to be folded.
Having to take a longer break as a ligament is hissy fitting.

There's a now heaping pile of assorted notions/scraps/patterns/unfinished projects in the middle of the room, and I need to tackle them too. I'm tempted to toss every notion into a large plastic tub and then sort them out to trims, elastic, closures, zippers, piping cords etc. I'll give that a go and see how it turns out.

A productive sewing weekend

For a few reasons including migraine and Eurovision semi-final, I didn't get as much done as hoped but I did complete two older UFOS. Well one needs the hem length checked before sewing, and I can get that done this week.

A couple of forgot-to-pack items (elastic to finish the PJ pants, and red thread to sew on buttons) had me d'oh. I thought I'd packed the first but it didn't even occur to me that I needed red for red buttons on a print dress being sewn with grey.

Didn't get a photo of me in either dress so I'll get around to that later in the week.

The older UFO was from March 2016, and had been sidelined for a couple of reasons. I'd originally had black fabric for a contrast collar but it felt too heavy a contrast. I eventually realised that the fabric I bought for the mermaid print dress was far better for this dress. Preferring 3/4 length sleeves, I drafted a contrast + shaped band for the sleeve hem.  If I'd thought about adding more of the lapel fabric before the dress was cut out, I could have added a shaped angled fake-pocket flap to the skirt.  I'm the rare woman who doesn't like pockets, so it didn't occur to me when I avoided the pattern's pockets. I even remembered to include a loop in the waist seam for my work's building/printer pass.

The 100% finished dress is the  February 2017 dress in the Lost at Sea print, originally finished in the same room/retreat back in 2017.  It was very demoralising that it didn't fit, and when I tried taking in the bodice it became clear that the neckline didn't suit me. As it couldn't be altered due to already cut buttonholes, I eventually threw more money at it and got more fabric.  I think that one reason I've procrastinated on finishing the new bodice to attach the already made skirt, is the fear that it still wouldn't look good on me. But you know, even if it doesn't look perfect it's still better than I could buy in RTW. I've included the waist loop (nearly forgot) and as it was done just in time for packing up, will press it before getting a photo.

I need to make a cape/cloak before tacking the next UFO dress-a-month - the mermaid print.

Red, Pink or dye+pink cloak decisions

Yesterday I forgot to take the red wool to work to cut out on the large meeting table after work. Ugh.  Last Sunday I pre-shrank 5 woollen fabrics - these 3 are on my cloak list.  The red for scarlet regency,  the pink for a backup wool cloak and the green tweed check for steampunk as we've got a new event this July in Sydney.

I'll use any of them in real life in our few weeks of winter, as I find it easier to regulate how warm I am than a coat. I haven't even had a coat for around 25 years,  and it was teal.  No black coat or suit for me,  much as I love crows and ravens.

The pink is 100% wool and dyes really well,  so I can change it if I don't want to be a short wide vibrant pink blob on the horizon. Then I could make it a colour more likely to be worn c1800. That's the cut I'm aiming for.

If I don't dye it,  then I have two short lengths of vintage cotton I can use for lining the facing and hood. Back in the day they used silk (pics look like taffeta not crepe de chine) and my stash only has ecru,  putty green and cyclamen pink satin IR crepe de chine. The wrong pink for this.  Decisions.

Sewing retreat To-Do list revision

Forget the apron,  my Wonder Woman flanellette nightie needs to be finished.  Plus I have a cute hoodie that is too tight in the boobs,  hips and bicep.

Back in January I was looking for some plain fleece to do a gusset up each side into the sleeves when I found the linen print fabric that I still haven't used. The sleeves on the hoodie are too long as well. Though that's a quicker fix.

Tonight I start packing the projects,  cos my lounge is a disaster zone with them scattered around.

My updated sewing list is:

• 3 pairs flannelette PJ pants - all they need is elastic in the waist.
• Wondy flannelette nightie - 25% done.
• lost at sea dress - 75% done
• retro print 40s red floral - about 50% sewn
• mermaid dress - cut out, no sewing donewool cape - cutting it out tomorrow, cos I need it for real life as I don't own a coat
• altering Marie Antoinette fleece hoodie

And depending what that looks like in a pile possibly including

• martini dress - all cut out, but front bodice is missing so far, will sew what I can

Over a quarter of my fabric folded to fit

Thank goodness I have a stubborn streak and have learned to use it for good not evil.  The technique I'm using was used by a friend, Abi, who found it from another blogger. The result is effective and out of my stash should fit in the shelves. If not more culling to be done.
http://www.ialwayspickthethimble.com/2015/01/24/sunny-sewing-room-folding-fabrics-size/

By the time I'd reached my tolerance point on Sunday evening,  I'd folded a quarter of my stash,  if you go by number of pieces.  I simply left a couple of piles on the floor.

Last night I folded another 17 fabrics before I tapped out again.

This is the result so far:

Planning for a sewing long weekend this month

I'm returning to an annual sewing retreat, run by one of the Aussie Sewing Guild groups, and am really looking forward to a productive weekend of UFO busting.  Because the retreat isn't close to any shops, let alone a fabric shop,  if you don't take it you won't have it. My nerd response is to make a thorough packing list for projects - fabric, pattern, itemising notions - and casually toss in a smaller bag the clothing I'll need to wear while I'm there. My priority is really obvious.

To be most productive it's best to have I want to sew already cut out. There are a couple of cutting tables set up, but if you get so much more sewing done if all you're doing is stitching and not futzing over a cutting table. Plus with a group of close to 40 the tables get a lot of use for smaller things.

Completing unfinished projects is my theme for this retreat - although I also want to make lots of new things that's always the way. UFO busting is my current priority.   My retreat sewing list is always at least 1 garment longer than the capacity to sew. I learned to pack at least one more project than I can reasonably finish in case something goes wrong with one and I just can't look at it, or it has no mojo at the time.

This retreat's sewing list is

• 3 pairs flannelette PJ pants - all they need is elastic in the waist.
• lost at sea dress - 75% done
• mermaid dress - cut out, no sewing done
• retro print 40s red floral - about 50% sewn
• martini dress - all cut out, but front bodice is missing so far, will sew what I can
• wool cape - cutting it out tomorrow, cos I need it for real life as I don't own a coat
• regency apron in black silk/linen - it's a maybe if I'm feeling the love for it.

I keep wanting to add new projects but I can't reasonably pack more than this.

Folding fabric, seemingly forever.

Started the tedious but satisfying chore of folding fabric to fit in the shelves.  Once it's done I'll be able to find a piece I know is in there.  Also hopefully it will all fit in the cupboards.

I'm sorting them into categories as I go,  and making a discard/giveaway pile.  Some of them may be used for mock ups or underpinnings for steampunk etc

Regency era cookbooks on my bookshelf.

I'm going to be reviewing these again, as I'd started but haven't picked enough for my afternoon tea plans.  I'm thinking of "cheating" by buying pre-made gluten free mini pies.  I know they weren't likely to have been set out in the afternoon back then, but I'm not really bothered. I've made them in the past with white wine sauce (mmh, some for me some for the white sauce) so I should really reconsider that.

What I have are :

The first book I bought, I'd originally borrowed from the library and really wanted a copy for myself. Cooking with Jane Austen by Kirstin Olsen is from a Feasting with Fiction series and only now am I thinking that I should see what else was in the series. I found a copy overseas - and was thankfully not underemployed in 2010 so could afford to buy it.

The second book I managed to track down was a copy of Margaretta Acworth's Georgian Cookery Book. It was published in the 1980s and the Prochaska's (who are the authors) list the original receipt, followed by a modern translation. It wasn't cheap, mainly cos few copies were available at the time, but now it's very affordable. Especially if posted from the UK.  The recipe I've made a couple of times is what I call Cardiac Apple Pie. The pie filling includes double cream and brandy and OMG it's so rich but so good. I'm thinking of trying to make a gluten free version, for which I need so GF digestive biscuits.

My third and last (so far) of my books covering this era is Lobscouse and Spotted Dog: Which It’s a Gastronomic Companion to the Aubrey/Maturin Novels by Anne Chotzinoff Grossman and Lisa Grossman Thomas. I didn't get the hardback,  cos I didn't even think to look for one.  This series of Patrick O'Brian's books is set in the Navy (military not merchant) and food gets mentioned a lot. I'm assuming he researched the food of the era, and these authors have done an amazing job of researching and publishing them.

There are possibly others, but I'm a bit of a nerd, and want original era recipes not things that are thought to be Austen-ish.  You do you and I'll do me.

BTW the third isn't the only fiction inspired recipe book on my bookcase. I also have A Feast of Ice and Fire - because yes I'm a huge GRRM fan.

Oh, another regency era clothing book that I got last year at the Jane Austen Festival in Louisville (Kentucky) was the catalogue from the DAR exhibition An Agreeable Tyrant: Fashion after the Revolution.

brain-dump of regency stuff - or possibly how to freak someone out

I'm hoping that I haven't freaked out someone interested in regency fashion - and wearing it.  I did a quick brain dump in a FB message. I thought I'd make an expanded post here in case anyone else is interested - and it's Australia centric cos that's where I am.

First up places to wear costume (in Sydney, Australia) cos that's a little shorter than making-of info.

The Bush Dance Club have an annual Colonial ball that is awesome. Very reasonable price, live music and incredibly welcoming and tolerant of those who are new to the dances.

There's a Wentworth Falls Regency Weekend usually in September, skipping 2019 and the next one is in 2020.

On Facebook there's the Historical Picnic Society group - yes picnic events so not usually in mid summer or in mid winter.

Hyde Park Barracks did use to have a Redcoats and Convicts event in June, but as the site is having a major renewal it's closed til later in 2019. I hope they have them again.  Some of the Historic Houses have events I'd wear a costume to, though that's not necessarily their intent.

I've heard that this years Jane Austen Festival Australia in Canberra was the last one, so that's not an option.

Sidebar: I went to the Jane Austen Festival in Kentucky, USA last July and loved it.  Also making initial plans for the festival in Bath in 2021. It's a 10 day festival so I'd need to make more clothes, chemises and take more than one pair of stays.

I've worn costume as a ticket holder to both Ironfest (April in Lithgow), Blacktown Medieval Fayre (May), Winterfest (July in Hawkesbury Showground)  and St Ives Medieval Faire (September). Ironfest, Winterfest and St Ives are multi era events and coming along in costume is encouraged.

Friends have worn historical clothing to Supanova and OzComicCon, cos why not.

One of the first blogs I came across when I was looking for information on making things myself was Jessamyn's Regency Costume Companion.    It might be an older site but the information is still relevant.

The Oregon Regency Society blog has some great articles on garments (and one on fitting stays)
http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/06/overview-of-regency-stayscorsets.html

Jennifer Rosburgh has some great posts on her website https://historicalsewing.com and a workbook you can buy on fitting stays and on sewing sheer fabrics. I only have her workbook on corded petticoats, which is thorough.

I also love libraries and books, so found in a nearby library Jean Hunnisett's books Period Costume for Stage and Screen. I borrowed and found them helpful because though it's aimed at theatre/film she has a solid grasp of fashion history, and the underlayers/cut required to have a reasonable representation of the silhouette.  Machine based sewing is a win in my book because I'm not a lover of hand sewing.  If it's your thing and love it, then that's awesome.  Anywho I bought 4 of Hunnisett's books:

• Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800
• Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
• Patterns for Outer Garments: Cloaks, Capes, Stoles and Wadded Mantles
• Dominos, Dolmans, Coats, Pelisses, Spencers, Calashes, Hoods & Bonnets

For this period, my bookshelf also has 

• Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830 by Cassidy Percoco
• The Lady's Stratagem: A Repository of 1820's Directions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Ettiquette by Frances Grimble 
• Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques by Jill Salen
  
  and I want to buy
• Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body by Mandy Barrington

Other books I have that also include some 1790-1800 era clothing scale patterns are:

• Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh
• The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 by Norah Waugh
•  Patterns of Fashion 1 by Janet Arnold
• History of Costume: from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century by Blanche Payne - the older edition has scale patterns but not all editions do.

Some fashion books with info or eye candy are:

• A lady of Fashion: Barbara Johnson's Album of Styles and Fabrics (out of print and hard to find so pricey)
• Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen by Sarah Jane Downing (not 100% sure but will check my bookcase)
• A Dance with Jane Austen by Sussanah Fullerton
  Costume in Detail by Nancy Bradfield (lots of sketches of garments and their interiors)
• V&A Underwear: Fashion in Detail
• V&A 19th Century Fashion in Detail
• Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in detail 1700-1915 bu Sharon Sadako Takeda (LACMA collection items)
• Fashion: A history from the 18th to 20th Century (Kyoto Costume Institute collection)
• Napoleon & the Empire of Fashion: 1795-1815 by Barreto and Lancaster
• The Art of Costume in Russia 18th C to 20thC - The Hermitage Leningrad

Scale patterns
If you can handle scaling up graphed patterns, then 19thUS website has great patterns in two sections  Women's Gowns and Outerwear, and Women's Underpinnings.  There aren't instructions, but they have photos and scale patterns of a variety of extant garments.  I made the Corset C1800 back in 2011 and it was great. I had to tinker to make it fit me, but it wasn't too difficult.

PDF patterns
If you don't mind printing and sticking patterns together (in my mind it's marginally better than hand sewing) then Redthreaded has great stays patterns and instructions. Already printed are available at redthreaded.com and the printable are via her Etsy shop https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/Redthreaded?section_id=24314830

BlackSnail Patterns on Etsy have a few regency PDF patterns - multisize which is great. Their romantic era stays could also be used, though the chemise pattern in this bundle isn't suited for 1790-1820.

The Danish National Museum has reorganised their website so I can't link their garment's with scale patterns. Yes, I downloaded them when they were available.

Actual paper patterns

I have a couple more than these but as an idea of what was or is available, though postage from overseas can bite. Personally I don't like the draft of Sense and Sensibility's regency dress, and Reconstructing History's regency era but like so much it's my subjective preference not a rule or even a guideline.

Country Wives
#02 - 1805-1855 Two Chemises

Daffodown Dilly
Regency era wrap stays

La Mode Bagatelle

Regency Wardrobe

Laughing Moon
#115 - 1806-1810 ladies regency/romantic era stays
#126 - 1800-1810 Ladies' Round or Trained Gown with a High Stomacher Front

Mantua Maker
#1800-5 -  1750-1900 fingerless mittens, multisize petite to XL
#1810-3 -  1800-1820 regency corset, multisize 2-30

Mill Farm Patterns
MF3 Womans caps 1720 to 1800

Northern Soc of Costume & Textiles
#02 - 1793 dress of the revolution. (FYI, a scale pattern)

Past Patterns
#001 - 1830-1840 stays, multisize
#002 - chemises, multisize 10-20
#038 - Transitional stays with bust gussets 1793-1820, mutlti size 8-26
#031 - front closing gown 1796-1806, 16-20
#705 - 19th century sensible stays, 8-20

Period Impressions
#461 - 1809 Spencer jackets, 18-20-22
#815 - 18thC caps and pocket

Rocking Horse Farm
#196 - Redingote/Riding Coat (regency)

Timely tresses
#103 - Camillia, 1795-1810
#105 - Zenobia jockey cap 1800-1810

I even have 3 cookbooks with recipes of this era.

overthinking sleeve options

Something else I've considered as an alternative to sleeves is the sleeveless dress with button on capelet.  This doesn't resolve the sleeve ending in an unflattering place but it does provide coverage for the office. The main drawback is that I'd need more fabric.

The style of caplet integration that I like the most so far is this Mail order pattern. I like that the cape is buttoned on but the volume starts adjacent to the bust not over it.

 

Vogue 7706 is a little more problematic with making my bust point close to the widest.

The other pattern idea that I can easily adapt is mail order 9287.

And I've gone down the rabbit hole and created a pinterest page for the variety of vintage dress patterns with removable capeletspatterns

Flip-flop thinking over which pattern to use

I've spent the past week+ dithering over which pattern to use for the linen fabric.

I had been thinking of  either of these Mail Order patterns but the first (4698) has a more enclosed neckline than I even want to think about.

 The second #3356 is more likely though I might scoop the neckline a little lower.

 The third  #9039 will take more work as I need to franken pattern it to a pattern that fits (as it's smaller than me).

I'm even more indecisive on the subject of sleeves.  I really don't like my upper arms - they've been beefy my whole life and the combination of them with narrow shoulders and I feel less like a weightlifter when they're covered.  The point of this dress is to not overheat so no 3/4 sleeves. Short sleeves kinda draw attention to my bust - it's like a solid line across my body.  Cap sleeve, hmmm, they're a bit irritating but perhaps an option.   I'm more than likely overthinking as until I've checked the fabric layout of either of the last 2 patterns (altered to fit me) then I don't know if I have enough yardage for sleeves.

Long time with no posts

It's been a long while since I posted,  and the reality is that I barely sewed a thing last year.  So my plan is to re-make some sewing habits this year, starting with some basic stuff.  I'm aiming for a garment a month,  excluding January cos we've had heatwave after heatwave.

I've been reminded that linen is a great fibre to wear when it's stinking hot and humid, and it's a gap in my fabric stash.  I found a great print linen in a Queensland shop online and grabbed 4m for a shift dress or a shirt dress.

Admittedly I'm better suited by muted colours,  but I'll feel cool wearing it.