raiding the stash for 1740s underpinnings

I raided the stash for fabric to make the bum pad using the Simplicity pattern by American Duchess.

I was looking for a 1.5m piece of grey linen with a woven self-stripe that is in my discard pile. If I can't use it soon, it's going to a craft charity shop.  Before I found that piece I came across a piece of wide ribbed twill pink cotton (2m x 150cm) that I don't even remember buying. It's lighter than drill, but more robust than the swiss cottons I have so it's been selected. I even preshrank that this morning before coming to work.

I'm also going to use any left over from this to make a boned stomacher (?) piece to go under the stays that don't really fit. I'm hoping that's a quicker easier fix than making new stays cos I just don't have time. My brain can't quite remember if stomacher is the right word, it is for a gown, but for stays I think it is too.

Something like this one in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Item: C.I.39.13.206 1750-75.

In lieu of actual sewing - here's a new-to-me 1920s drawers pattern

I bought this Pictorial Review Pattern on The eBay earlier this year because I was fascinated by how it's a fusion or mash up of bloomers and 20s loose leg drawers.  So fascinated that I had to buy it - it wasn't spendy - and I do plan to grade it to my size and make some myself.  I've seen open legged patterns, and fully banded  but not this half'n'half version.

PPS I still haven't finished my strawberry print dress. That sewing mojo is still in hiding.

Historic Sew Monthly 2015: March, Stashbusting

I was a whisker away from finishing this back in March and posting in time. But I put it aside to finish my Mrs Whitlow 1917ish dress. The last thing left to do back then was add the waistband of grosgrain ribbon and take a photo.


I didn't iron it after taking it out of the suitcase so I'm happy with it. The only thing I may or may not do is add a boxpleat ruffle to the bottom of the cage.

The Challenge: March 2015 Stashbusting - Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.
Fabric: from a 7metre bolt end of quilters cotton, purchased about 8 years ago on sale.
Pattern: Laughing Moon #112 View D - bustle cage
Year:  1883-9
Notions: thread from stash, bias binding from stash, german nylon boning from stash, buttons and grommets from stash.  The only thing I bought was grosgrain ribbon for the waistband because I really felt it needed to match the fabric.
How historically accurate is it? probably 95%, the waistband ribbon andnylon boning are the only non-period aspects.
Hours to complete: 7-8 hours as a guestimate.
First worn: Saturday 11 July
Total cost: $2 for ribbon, everything else had been stashed for a minimum of a year

Starting a new edwardian corset - TVe

 Is your brain spinning around - cos mine certainly is!


My corsets are uncomfortably too small :(   The 1880-90 is a small amount too small but it's brocade fashion garment and not suitable as underwear.  With garments on the outside perhaps making wear patterns on the brocade.  My c1903 is that bit smaller again, and the larger gap at centre back moves the side back steels to the wrong spot on me and so they're trying to twist rather than not even being noticable. Too rapid a curve in & out for flats.

So, I need to make a quick & dirty corset, or I'm dooooomed.  I raided my corset patterns & supplies.  I was going to make Ageless 1288  as I love the design lines of it, and its in my stash.

I traced it off, adding to each panel to get it to my new stouter measurements.  And thought, hmmmm this is going to take too much altering. The waist to top edge is too long to fit my shortwaistedness, and the waist too hip edge too short for my preference. Too much futzing around for a timecrunch. So I spent the last of that evening and a day at work with my brain flip-flopping between slightly enlarging (simple) the panel corset or taking a little more effort and the Truly Victorian edwardian corset.  I love the back shape on both, but the TVe slightly wins the race cos I like the front of it that little bit more.

Here's a poor quality photo of me in the black corset I made with it in 2012.

So I decided that I'd leap to the side of the edwardian, so long as I made a couple of changes. So after work I managed to get the pattern pieces photocopied onto larger paper and just cut out the size i want to use.

The changes are to make the lower back 1 size larger than the rest of the corset (the waist squish has to move somewhere) and, and instead of cutting the top edge down 1" (as I'm short-waisted) that I'd more properly take that 1" from between waist & bust. I takes a whisker longer but provides the correct width at upper edge.

Lastly, most importantly, raise the point at which the bust gusset is inserted by 3cm. It meant reshaping the Centre Front & Middle Front pieces.



Which also meant changing the bottom half of the bust gusset the most - I got lazy and will infill the lower section as I cut.


Because I also had to take 1" from the top half of the gusset, I took that from two half inc slices and it now looks like


Now I'm about to cut it out from white coutil. Yayy for stashbusting as I have the coutil, a choice of 3 busks and assorted steels.  I also have a roll of 6mm spiral steel somewhere. I likely put fabric on top of it, so need to find it before I can finish. Unless I buy some precuts at Metro Fabrics next Wednesday.

Stashbusting a lobster tail

Lobster-tail bustle cage that is.  (If you're not sure what garment I'm talking about, here's one in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art)

I got it cut out & started sewing it yesterday, using the Laughing Moon pattern #112 view D.  I can't resist being economical with fabric even when I don't have to - got it out in 1.5m of 112cm (45") wide fabric. I made some changes to the construction. I flat felled the cage seams - no manky fraying inside my underpinnings.  Plus the top 2 & 3 steels now cross each other, mainly cos the extant ones I've coveted seem to have that and I want it.


Also I will have the bottom inside panel button closed, not lace up. Second lastly (maybe) the seam joining the cage & front drape will all be on the inside of the cage, and bound with bias tape.  Maybe last change, the edge of the front drape will also have bias binding around it - the pattern instructions are to turn the edge under 1.5cm and stitch it down - despite the fact that it's only 0.5cm  longer than the seam it abuts and that you've.just.already.sewn.it.to!!! WHAT!


Oh, not my last change, I'm not leaving a gap in bottom of the channels to insert the steels, but popping them in the seam that I'll then stitch close.  Easier!

Probably my last change is to add a pleat to the the lower edge, stitching it just above the lowest steel. But I haven't cut and pleated athat yet.  I'd have got the steels in already but I didn't take them for my stay in the mountains (keeping a friend company after a breakup).
Here's some flowers at her local train station.

inspired by the 1920s and tea-rose coutil

I didn't anticipate needing one myself, but the The Roaring 20s is close - every February in the Blue Mountains.  I'm hoping to go to a daytime event, and before I can make the dress, need an appropriate brassiere for my substantial acreage.  I'm hoping to use the pattern in Jill Salen's Vintage Lingerie.

Other than if it will be effective, I'm concerned to know how I'll be able to fasten it. It was designed to fasten by hook & eye at the side seam.


Except due to my height (thus short arms), and stout self I'm physically unable to do that.  Could I lace it closed under the CF and then hook & it down the bust seam - like the tudor gown Hunnisett has where the stomacher pins over the front lacing gown.

Does that make sense??

I've also become obsessed with making it in a tea-rose broche coutil, although I don't have any. So I'm going to visit Metro Fabrics on Saturday and hope they still have a floral broche in a sort of pink. Even just broche, and I'll dye it!

Obsession can be both good & bad. If it motivates me to start sewing, then I'm likely to get the happy-sewing-juju back.

back in the zone ...

Yes that is a very bad pun or dad joke, because the jacket in the costume is what we in teh 21st century call a zone front

Underpinnings are first under the needle. From op shop cotton guest towel, to 18th century pockets.

The pocket was made on Saturday (the other can be done if  I have enough time) and tonight I finished the hip pads. I used the pattern in the wingeo set ... at least I think it is. It's the set that I made my bum-pad from.  This time I used poplin ($1/metre that I still have about 5metres of) with pretty stars on it. Anyone sees the stars that means I'm prancing in my underwear, they shouldn't show through a petticoat and skirt.

Naturally I couldn't just make the pattern up as they are. I read the recent Foundations Revealed article on an extant working class (or not upper) stays with attached hip pads. So I noted that the loop tapes would make the wingeo pads not at waist level but @ 3" below. And the construction in that FR had the padding a coupleish inches below the waist.  Yes these would be larger/longer, but I'm a solid lump, unline the woman who wore those stays.

So I pencilled a line at 7cm from the top edge and stuffed them so that only the outer half would be padded.  Pinned along the pencil line, trying to keep the top section even & flat.


and then I stitched with edge of the foot next to the pins.  (what, you didn't expect hand stitching from me did you? foolishness!)

and then stitched another 5mm close to the waist, just in case any stitches pop, and turning in the seam left open for inserting the padding . After taking out the pins I have 2 pads for my hips that will get basted directly to the stays a smidge below my waist.


I also got the skirt a quarter done. I'm only using 2 widths of my 120cm (47") wide fabric, simply so that I don't have to cut slits for pockets. it's less than the original ... and she wasn't tiny.  I did the maths and her waist is about 33".  I got the lengths cut, overlocked the top edge so it doesn't fray. Stitched the side seams, and basted down the openings. I'm going to use the design structure of the NSCT 1793 outfit - not open at the side waist, cos the back half is gathered on tapes.  It's kosher, period and just a little bit different. The front edge is bound after the pleats are done which is usual, not so much the back section. But then again it's usually high class clothing that has survived in museums. This method isn't as pleat-pretty but perfectly functional with only 1 set of ties to be done when you dress. quicker!

femme Doctor - the corset

I'm still being a bit of a neat freak, so it's a quick & dirty corset for someone with a perfectionist streak.

When I mocked this up & tried it on way back at the end of July, I completely forgot to mark the waistline on it, and it's not marked on the pattern.  So, yes I didn't include a waist stay on this corset.  If it only survives a couple of outings that's ok ... as I'm happy to make this corset pattern again.

It's a single strength layer, with the brocade flat-lined to the coutil. I pin basted it, and am patting myself on the back as it's worked so well.   I also graded the seams coutil only, and pressed them to the sides.  I used 1: cotton tape for the boning channels and stitched all seams from top to bottom ... read somewhere to do this with boning channels so just did it for everything so I wouldn't forget.

I cut the brocade one piece at a time, flipping the cut piece & matching the brocade pattern & cutting the other side to exactly match.  Ugh.  because the pattern isn't cut all on straight grain the brocade is cut on the same grain as the coutil.

The only things left to do is stitch down the grey satin binding & set the grommets.  Oh, must make a modesty panel for the back. aaargh.

Double argh, need to make a narrow scarf in the silk satin I have.  It may be more of a tube so that I don't have to hand sew rolled hems ... have I mentioned my loathing for hand sewing

femme Dr Who costume is getting real!

Wheee, the blouse is 95% done. I've got 4 buttonholes & buttons to sew, and the sleeve hem to stitch down (pressed & pinned ready to go). Oh and to stitch the fake button band down once the buttons are sewn underneath. Oh, (yes I'm starting to forget things) also to stitch the wrist strap to the sleeve seam in the right spot.


 

The petticoat just needs the waistband, and it's being gathered, not pleated onto the band (cut from a 3rd fabric).  I've time, I can stitch down the trim I picked out of the smallish trim tub, there's slightly more trim than I need but hey, it works from the stash.

I also made it to Metro Fabrics today and got the busk & steels I need - it's a spendy way to buy steels - they have a flat price of $2 each + GST, so if you're getting long steels it's ok, but if you're getting short ones, it's wince making.  It's much better to plan ahead and shop from www.aussiecorsetsupplies.com or www.ararenotion.com.au

A friend is giving me some grommets, cos I don't have enough left of any colour and I'm not mixing & matching them, but I also ordered a gross each of black, pewter and aged brass from overseas, and a spoon busk cos I really want to try one.

motivation slump, micro progress

I'm struggling to motivate myself to sew - this usually isn't a problem. I'm not sure what a solution is but I'm doing something every day. Today it was pinning all the petticoat pieces together, bar the side seams as they'll be joined after the rows of ruffles go onto the back.

Note for my memory, I'm using a short version D from Hunnisett's pattern sheet no 27, in Period Costume for Stage & screen 1800-1909.

I also pulled out the corset pattern pieces, well there was 1 piece missing when I packed my sewing explosion up in Brissie, but I have the mock up and can take a pattern of that piece.  I need to add height to the side front, thanks to the acreage.  I'm going to have to get a busk & grommets at Metro on Saturday morning - and some steels. I'll take my mock up with me so I can get the right length.

Its hard to get an impression of it from the mockup laid flat on the floor, but it's a good shape. It's the 1890-1910 corset on page 71 of Jill Salen's Corsets. The black with gold flossing.

the brain spins while picking a corset pattern

I'm going to go for the black with yellow flossing corset in Salen's book, page 71, it's 1890-1900, and very similar to Waugh's 1880 but it's a larger size to start with. wahoooo.  less adding of inches to it.

I enlarged at 200% on th copier and the scale equaled 3", so I'm at the original size already. :D  I can do the cording lower from the top edge as per Waugh's pattern.

Or both!

AND THIS WASN'T EVEN A CONTENDER ALL DAY.

I started off on Wednesday with the 1885 "exotic" in Salen's book.  Only to later on switch to "yes I'll do the 1868 Foy", only to later decide that I'd make the 1870s Waugh pattern. {pause} and a couple of hours later decide on the 1860s red & black pattern (the cover on Salen's Corset book) but with a busk. 

Only to decide on something that completely and utterly hadn't even been considered. At all. Ever.

That day was so mentally exhausting that I'm sticking with Salen's 1890 Black with yellow flossing.  In white with pink or blue flossing.  Or cream with pale yellow.  I've got 2 pieces of coutil. One a stark white, and the other a soft white almost creamy in comparison.

I'm doing a single layer with applied casing (if I need extras).

a dizzying round to end procrastination

Bolting out the door of sanity and running madly past the ideas of which corset I actually will make to wear with my next steampunk and my Ma Dola costumes. And others.

I'm tempted to make an 1860s, as that's suitable for both these ideas, but then my brain says make 1880s and then you can use it for both ... even though there are differences with the ideal body shape for these decades.

Once the costume is made to fit over the corset, it's the one I'll have to keep using.  I've got a scaled/sized up copy of the 1868 Foy patent which a former LJer sent me, and the red/black 1860 corset on the cover of Salen's Corsets book. Which I'd need to size/scale up.

Also in my grabby hands are the scale patterns by Hunnesett (late 1870s?), Salen's exotic 1880s, Salen's 1890s pretty housemaid, Salen's large blue jean corset (1890s) which is almost my size, Corsets & Crinoline's 1880s, and ageless #1298 (1890s) which also needs grading to size.

I may just flat measure the foy pattern and see if it's close to my size or not. Otherwise I may just plump for the red/black (looks to be about 24"+lacing gap waist).

I can dither forever but I need to decide really quickly so I can mock it up this weekend.

stashbusting for the corded petticoat

aiyyy, much as I'd love to be buying cotton organdy for my corded petticoat, I'm not going to.  I gave myself a mental headslap as I've 3 lengths of white hanky-weight linen in my stash. I've got 5 linen chemises already and even if I make a bodiced petticoat with one length, that still leaves 2 sitting waiting to be used. And are money already spent!

Corded linen petticoats are period so I need to just do it! Lunchtime tomorrow I'll go to the knitting shop in the city and get some heavier crochet cotton to use so that I have all the things, and can start it as soon as my Winterfest sewing is done.

Yesterday i didn't get anything sewing done, I've a mild headache that's been around for a few days. And I worked late, which is good as I need to make up time already taken. By the time I got home at 7.30pm I was tired, grumpy, hungry and my inner toddler was in ascendency. Time for takeaway, avoiding the news/interwebs cos of that stoopid sports match that was on which I have zero interest in. Along with an early to bed to get some zzz.  Except I had a crap night sleep due to being woken up by neighbours etc. Oh and I remembered dreaming - an anxiety one where I had so many deadlines and the only way I could finish everything was to do a bit of everything each day.  Oddly enough just like my real life scenario.

If I can do a couple of rows of my corded petti each day then I won't be spending my week's holiday before Steamfest sewing endless row after row of cording.

lets not forget about shoes and underpinnings

Eep, I just realised that I've made zero thought as to what shoes Catelyn Stark wears.  Or maybe she wears boots.  I'm looking at my shoe collection and wonder what I can wear that's comfortable and closely appropriate - given that I have freakishly wide feet and can't just go out and buy shoes.

Part of me says that if I can't even see the hem of her skirt as it's covered by her coat, then surely I can chose whatever works best for me.  I've got some black hush puppies that I can wear all day, and I've pair of navy shoes I got for a costume that I could wear. Must see how comfy they are.

I also need to get some cotton organdy to make a corded petticoat. I need to start sewing this sooner rather than later, as I need it for the end of July. As I'm at Steamfest the weekend before SMASH, I can't leave it until I get home.

Plus I need a new corset to wear under my steampunk (in August) , and Ma Dola (ditto), and Clara ( at end November).  I could make an 1860s and a natural form, but I can wear the natural form corset under the 1860s.  So inspired by Before the Automobile I'm going to mock up both the 1880 in Waugh's Corsets & Crinolines and Salen's 1885 to see which is more suitable for my very different physique. Salen's because I've already scaled up the pattern and graded it to my approx size.  Even in my younger, slimmer years I was short-waisted and stocky.  Sadly I'm going to be not so elegant in appearance, and that's not even taking into account my hatred of hand sewing vis a vis flossing. But either one of these will have to do, as there is no perfect pattern.

eeee, I have Ageless #1288, a 1890 corset for a stout lady (though not as stout as me!).  I can't do this one too!

parcels and what Sesame Street calls "sometimes foods"

It's been a good parcel post this week.  I bought a selangor pewter jug and goblets on eBay, partly for more upper class regency reenactment and partly cos it reminded me of Game of Thrones.

It will get used, so it's not entirely impulsive and just for the pretties.  However another parcel that arrived the same day was Buried in Treasures: Help for Compulsive Acquiring, Saving, and Hoarding.  The co-incidental timing didn't escape me.  There's hoarding in the family, and I know I've a tendency to find it hard to let go of things.  This is to help me not get to the level of stuff that it becomes a problem for me. It started to while I was so sick if only because it had become disorganised, because you can't organise too much stuff.

Most of my stuff is sewing & costume related, but I can do an overall cull. I've done it in the past when I moved home a lot, however staying in the one place for so much longer has meant a build up of things.  Plus I can learn to think about objects differently.

The other thing that arrived was the costume patterns. I spent time this evening reading them and might even use the Tailor's Guide stays pattern as the base for my hobbit bodice.

I'm off my food today - there's a bug going around work and I came home at lunchtime yesterday and slept til 5.30pm.  I was ok enough to go to work today but didn't want brekkie.  I did get to eat a chicken quiche for lunch, and it was very chicken tasting. That is rather than faint hints of chicken I could see the pieces and taste it.  I'll buy it again, though it was fairly pricey, simply cos the filling was quality.  I got it at from the frozen section at an IGA on the way to work, and it's by a Queensland company Glutenfree Bakery.  I don't have a photo of it, cos it's in my tummy.  As it was frozen I heated it in the microwave at work, but if I was at home I'd take the time to heat it in an oven after defrosting. Last week I bought a twinpack of their Chicken Pies. YUM. This is something I've wanted repeatedly in the past 5 months and I finally found one I could eat.

Tailor's Guide - pattern range

A company I'd never heard of with, to quote their website, patterns from the "colonial fur trade, civil war, western frontier".    My finger isn't as on the pulse as I'd thought, cos despite trawling a whole lot of sites that sell historical type patterns I'd not spotted them before. Which is crazy considering the range of patterns Tailor's Guide have.  There are other patternson Amazon & Patterns of Time that aren't on their website. Yesterday I added to my pattern stash by ordering their 1725-85 Partially Boned reversible stays.
I also got Past Patterns 705 early to mid 19th century stays. I've wanted to look at it for ages and it wasn't going to add to my cost of postage so snaffled it. So yes, my obsession with underpinnings continues unabated.  One day I should work my way through every single pattern ... a scary thought!