Friday 3 May 2019

brain-dump of regency stuff - or possibly how to freak someone out

I'm hoping that I haven't freaked out someone interested in regency fashion - and wearing it.  I did a quick brain dump in a FB message. I thought I'd make an expanded post here in case anyone else is interested - and it's Australia centric cos that's where I am.

First up places to wear costume (in Sydney, Australia) cos that's a little shorter than making-of info.

The Bush Dance Club have an annual Colonial ball that is awesome. Very reasonable price, live music and incredibly welcoming and tolerant of those who are new to the dances.

There's a Wentworth Falls Regency Weekend usually in September, skipping 2019 and the next one is in 2020.

On Facebook there's the Historical Picnic Society group - yes picnic events so not usually in mid summer or in mid winter.

Hyde Park Barracks did use to have a Redcoats and Convicts event in June, but as the site is having a major renewal it's closed til later in 2019. I hope they have them again.  Some of the Historic Houses have events I'd wear a costume to, though that's not necessarily their intent.

I've heard that this years Jane Austen Festival Australia in Canberra was the last one, so that's not an option.

Sidebar: I went to the Jane Austen Festival in Kentucky, USA last July and loved it.  Also making initial plans for the festival in Bath in 2021. It's a 10 day festival so I'd need to make more clothes, chemises and take more than one pair of stays.

I've worn costume as a ticket holder to both Ironfest (April in Lithgow), Blacktown Medieval Fayre (May), Winterfest (July in Hawkesbury Showground)  and St Ives Medieval Faire (September). Ironfest, Winterfest and St Ives are multi era events and coming along in costume is encouraged.

Friends have worn historical clothing to Supanova and OzComicCon, cos why not.

One of the first blogs I came across when I was looking for information on making things myself was Jessamyn's Regency Costume Companion.    It might be an older site but the information is still relevant.

The Oregon Regency Society blog has some great articles on garments (and one on fitting stays)
http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/06/overview-of-regency-stayscorsets.html

Jennifer Rosburgh has some great posts on her website https://historicalsewing.com and a workbook you can buy on fitting stays and on sewing sheer fabrics. I only have her workbook on corded petticoats, which is thorough.

I also love libraries and books, so found in a nearby library Jean Hunnisett's books Period Costume for Stage and Screen. I borrowed and found them helpful because though it's aimed at theatre/film she has a solid grasp of fashion history, and the underlayers/cut required to have a reasonable representation of the silhouette.  Machine based sewing is a win in my book because I'm not a lover of hand sewing.  If it's your thing and love it, then that's awesome.  Anywho I bought 4 of Hunnisett's books:
  • Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800
  • Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
  • Patterns for Outer Garments: Cloaks, Capes, Stoles and Wadded Mantles
  • Dominos, Dolmans, Coats, Pelisses, Spencers, Calashes, Hoods & Bonnets
For this period, my bookshelf also has 
  • Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830 by Cassidy Percoco
  • The Lady's Stratagem: A Repository of 1820's Directions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Ettiquette by Frances Grimble 
  • Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques by Jill Salen

    and I want to buy
  • Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body by Mandy Barrington
Other books I have that also include some 1790-1800 era clothing scale patterns are:
  • Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh
  • The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 by Norah Waugh
  •  Patterns of Fashion 1 by Janet Arnold
  • History of Costume: from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century by Blanche Payne - the older edition has scale patterns but not all editions do.
Some fashion books with info or eye candy are:
  • A lady of Fashion: Barbara Johnson's Album of Styles and Fabrics (out of print and hard to find so pricey)
  • Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen by Sarah Jane Downing (not 100% sure but will check my bookcase)
  • A Dance with Jane Austen by Sussanah Fullerton
    Costume in Detail by Nancy Bradfield (lots of sketches of garments and their interiors)
  • V&A Underwear: Fashion in Detail
  • V&A 19th Century Fashion in Detail
  • Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in detail 1700-1915 bu Sharon Sadako Takeda (LACMA collection items)
  • Fashion: A history from the 18th to 20th Century (Kyoto Costume Institute collection)
  • Napoleon & the Empire of Fashion: 1795-1815 by Barreto and Lancaster
  • The Art of Costume in Russia 18th C to 20thC - The Hermitage Leningrad
Scale patterns
If you can handle scaling up graphed patterns, then 19thUS website has great patterns in two sections  Women's Gowns and Outerwear, and Women's Underpinnings.  There aren't instructions, but they have photos and scale patterns of a variety of extant garments.  I made the Corset C1800 back in 2011 and it was great. I had to tinker to make it fit me, but it wasn't too difficult.

PDF patterns
If you don't mind printing and sticking patterns together (in my mind it's marginally better than hand sewing) then Redthreaded has great stays patterns and instructions. Already printed are available at redthreaded.com and the printable are via her Etsy shop https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/Redthreaded?section_id=24314830

BlackSnail Patterns on Etsy have a few regency PDF patterns - multisize which is great. Their romantic era stays could also be used, though the chemise pattern in this bundle isn't suited for 1790-1820.

The Danish National Museum has reorganised their website so I can't link their garment's with scale patterns. Yes, I downloaded them when they were available.

Actual paper patterns
I have a couple more than these but as an idea of what was or is available, though postage from overseas can bite. Personally I don't like the draft of Sense and Sensibility's regency dress, and Reconstructing History's regency era but like so much it's my subjective preference not a rule or even a guideline.

Country Wives
#02 - 1805-1855 Two Chemises

Daffodown Dilly
Regency era wrap stays

La Mode Bagatelle
Regency Wardrobe

Laughing Moon
#115 - 1806-1810 ladies regency/romantic era stays
#126 - 1800-1810 Ladies' Round or Trained Gown with a High Stomacher Front

Mantua Maker
#1800-5 -  1750-1900 fingerless mittens, multisize petite to XL
#1810-3 -  1800-1820 regency corset, multisize 2-30

Mill Farm Patterns
MF3 Womans caps 1720 to 1800

Northern Soc of Costume & Textiles
#02 - 1793 dress of the revolution. (FYI, a scale pattern)

Past Patterns
#001 - 1830-1840 stays, multisize
#002 - chemises, multisize 10-20
#038 - Transitional stays with bust gussets 1793-1820, mutlti size 8-26
#031 - front closing gown 1796-1806, 16-20
#705 - 19th century sensible stays, 8-20

Period Impressions
#461 - 1809 Spencer jackets, 18-20-22
#815 - 18thC caps and pocket

Rocking Horse Farm
#196 - Redingote/Riding Coat (regency)

Timely tresses
#103 - Camillia, 1795-1810
#105 - Zenobia jockey cap 1800-1810

I even have 3 cookbooks with recipes of this era.

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