Monday, 8 August 2016

major progress for the strawberry print dress

My February dress is so far behind that it has UFO status because I can't really call it a current project when it sat languishing in a corner for so long. I took it to my aussie sewing guild group on Saturday and unlike the day I took 4 hours cutting out the 2 collars and interfacing I got so much done that it was as if I was on fire.

I attached the neck facing & did the understitching - thought I'd better remind myself that as the green fabric for the under collar is a heavier weight than the print, that I used the print on the back of the green collar.

Next attached the skirt to the bodice ... though I started pinning the front to the back before I realised that the bodice wasn't involved and it should be. I got the zip inserted and the hem done. I also had concerns that my pattern alterations to fit the bodice weren't accurately transposed to the finished waist measure for the skirt. They may have been but my mix up over the box pleats meant I lost all my tailors tacks and hadn't marked any changes on the pattern (with the idea that I'd do that once I'd finished). As the skirt-back was 2cm wider than the back-bodice, and the front skirt 1.5cm wider the the front bodice I simply sewed a dart between the side seam and the nearest box pleat. I'm of the theory that at this point I don't need more unpicking of box pleat top stitching and possible marks.

I need to fine tune the side bust dart, and will pin that tonight, as it's too high & a bit pointy. I'll try it with a couple of different bras to ensure that it's in a generally good spot.

I also need to make the covered buttons, and rummaged in my stash to find the packet I remembered having. Yes, it was where it should have been in the smallish box of fastenings (snap, ball+socket, suspenders etc) and has been there since I bought it new at $2.30.  It must be some time, cos there must have been a few price points between $2.30 and the $6+ it is now.  I've fused the scraps for buttons with a lightweight interfacing to reduce show-through of the button moulds.

I gave the plastic backs some firm bashes - because if it's going to shatter in the washing machine I'd rather use a newer kit than this.

Then I need to cut out a mockup of the pattern's sleeve and see if it fits and works for me and my beefy biceps.  I had to add 2cm at the edge of the shoulder (between both front & back) as the pattern draft is more sloped than myself, I know that's the least change needed.

I'm going to be happy wearing it, but I'm considering making a design change when I make it again with the mermaid print. I'm thinking of having more but shallower boxpleats, and not having one at centre front or centre back.  Thanks to PCOS my bowl-shaped belly is more pronounced than I'd like. It may make no difference, but I might as well try it.

Oh, I got thread & buttons for the mermaid print.  The buttons are dark grey with blue & yellow appearing as they tilt. The shop suggested I tip them all out and get ones where blue not yellow dominates. Smart call

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